Ski Brush Carving.

1. Enter a medium slope at a steady medium speed, fast enough that you won't stall.

   A brush (artificial-turf) surface is more slippery than snow, so skidding the board sideways won't give you grip. You need to tip the edge hard so it bites in, which requires keeping some speed.

2. Before the turn, bend both knees a little deeper than for carving on snow (roughly 100-110 degrees), keep your upper body facing your direction of travel, and look ahead to the brush where your next turn will go.

3. Toe-edge turn: Load the balls of both feet (under the big toe), press your shins forward to flex your ankles, and drive both knees toward the downhill side.

   Let your pelvis move slightly forward. Tip the front foot in first so the board engages from its front half, with the back foot following.

4. Heel-edge turn: Shift your weight onto both heels, lift your upper body upright, and stack your pelvis directly over the board.

   Don't drop your hips too far back or you'll overload the back foot and wash out the nose, so keep your chest forward to hold your weight over the center of the board.

5. Switch edges quickly.

   On a brush, grip is easiest to lose during the fall line (when the board points downhill), so keep that phase short and flip both edges over at once onto the new edge.

6. Through the second half of the turn, don't skid the board sideways.

   Keep the edge tipped and let the board run forward and rise out of the turn. The moment you skid, you'll decelerate sharply and pitch forward, so keep your weight on the line of the balls of your feet or your heels all the way to the end.

You can pin your own clip to the tricks you've landed (My Video).